Eating in Indianapolis

I rolled into Indianapolis ready to find the good eats. They had to be here somewhere, right? I know that when one thinks of fabulous food, one doesn’t necessarily think of Indiana (sorry, Indiana). Let’s face it: Indianapolis is known for race cars and basketball and not much else.

I spent my first two days asking for recommendations every chance I got. I was staying in a chain hotel, and the concierge made chain-hotel style recommendations, pointing me towards the usual bland American fare that most tourists probably love.

I, however, am not most tourists when it comes to eating. I’m willing to walk as far as my feet will take me to find great craft cocktail bars and foot-to-table restaurants. I struggled to find both in this town. My first night, a local shop owner pointed me towards a nearby burger joint and there I went, resigned to what I assumed would be a week of mediocre meals.

I admit that I was pleasantly surprised by the place. I enjoyed a local IPA, recommended by the

Burger, Fries, Beer. It was fine.

bartender. The lamb burger with tzatziki and olive relish was terrific. Even the fries were pretty darn good. But, it was still a burger, beer, and fries. When I travel, I try not to eat food that I can readily get at home.

I did strike up a conversation with a woman at the bar. I noticed that the bartender knew her by name, implying that she was a local. She was. Her name is Julie, and she had some great recommendations for me.

Her number one favorite place is Milk Tooth. She raved about this place. It’s a farm-to-table style diner and there is usually a wait. Score! I went there for lunch today and had what might be the best

Ridiculous iced coffee with
carrot and lemongrass.

meal of my life (and I’ve eaten at a two-Michelin star restaurant in the south of France). Even the coffees were fantastic, both complex, and flavorful. I enjoyed an iced Spice Trade: espresso, ginger, and lemongrass, topped with carrot, clove, and cardamom, shaken over ice. It sounds weird (carrot? in coffee?), but was divine.

My meal was even more unusual and yet comforting at the same time. I enjoyed a Spanish manchego & grapefruit dutch baby pancake with shaved brussel sprouts, shallots, hazlenuts, and sherry vinaigrette. I had no idea what a dutch baby pancake was, and I didn’t care. I had to eat this.

I knew it would be too much food but couldn’t resist adding a sour cream and maple roasted sweet potato biscuit, topped with cranberry butter and pomegranate seeds.

I still can’t believe I got to eat such wonderful, delicious food. The only downside to the meal is that

Maple sour cream sweet potato biscuit
with cranberry butter, and that dutch
baby pancake. I ate every bite. 

it was pouring rain so I had to call an Uber rather than walk the 1.3 miles back to the hotel. House later I still needed a nap.

The next day, after my conference was done was for the afternoon, I hit the streets. The sun finally came out after three days of rain and I couldn’t wait to walk the 1.3 miles to Julie’s second recommendation: Blue Beard. This is a farm to table style restaurant featuring craft cocktails with a menu that changes daily. I got there right when they opened and took a seat at the bar.

The next thing I know, the woman sitting next to me was my new best friend. She offered to let me

Steak tartare and the best cauliflower
I've ever had. Note the blueberry
cocktail. 

taste her cocktail (it was fantastic), and I returned the favor. We chatted a bit, off and on. She was delightful. She was also a proud mama – her daughter is one of the owners of the restaurant, and the chef. She sat on my left while a gentleman in a business suit sat on my right and nursed a drink while he waited for his companion. We also struck up a conversation. He spent his career as a sound engineer (if memory serves) and has been to every city in the US with a population greater than 250,000.

Chatting with my new friends was delightful, and after Ramona and

Bee's Knees.

I said our goodbyes, a couple sat down in her place and were lovely as well. I don’t know if it was the venue, the city culture, or that I’m getting better at getting out of my introvert box, but I don’t recall having such delightful conversations with folks at a bar pretty much ever.

And – the food. I enjoyed roasted cauliflower that was heaven in a bowl, and steak tartare that easily rivals the tartare I had in Paris. I washed that down with a house-designed blueberry cocktail and then a Bee’s Knees, which might be my new favorite drink.

The restaurant has a Kurt Vonnegut theme,
and it was Good Friday. My check was
presented inside the front cover.
That's my credit card peeking out on
the left. 

I happily walked back to the hotel, quite pleased with myself. I knew the good food was here somewhere. I just had to find it.